First of all, if you are already experiencing the fast growth of weeds in your current garden, get rid of them first! There is no point trying to destroy new weeds if there are already fast-growing ones invading your garden in the first place. Whether you end up digging them up, chopping them, or hoeing them, you’ll have to do whatever it takes to take out the root cause of the problem.

The second thing you have to do if you want to learn how to prevent weeds is to come up with material called “mulch”, which is basically anything that can cover the topmost layer of soil – this can include things of nature such as ground bark and leaves, and even the most unlikely suspects such as newspapers, or even an unused carpet. By covering the soil and keeping it under shade, you are able to prevent any other weeds from growing in it. Try to cover your soil with up to three to four inches of mulch for maximum effect.

If you have shrubs, use these plants to your advantage! Let them grow to their maximum size as they will be able to keep soil cool under their height and prevent weeds from growing by choking them even before they can cause any trouble to your soil, garden, and other growing plants. You can do this by fertilizing the soil where your shrubs are very well during the growing season.

If you must, use ground covers that can spread fast so that weeds won’t even get the chance to grow and develop in the soil. Some of these ground covers include vinca or hypericum. Foliage makes it hard to feeds to grow to their full potential.

Finally, pull out weeds regularly – this is the key to a weed-free garden. Be consistent and check your garden constantly for any signs of weed growth. Do not wait for them to grow before you pull them out. Pull them out as you first spot them! This is the most important thing to remember to ensure that your garden is free of any damaging weeds.

The rotating composter works so well for a number of reasons but chief among them is the basic design and the action of actually rotating the contents.

When we turn the handle we are chopping up the contents, making them smaller and easier to compost. This speeds up the process considerably. On top of this we are evenly distributing the heat that in conventional compost heaps is always at the centre of the pile. By evening out the temperature we are ensuring that all the contents break down quickly and evenly. This speeds up the process no end and is one of the chief benefits of the compost tumbler.

Apart from the fact that we can make compost in two to three weeks the design aspect should not be overlooked. They are compact and easy to site in even the smallest of spaces. They also look very good which is becoming more important to many gardeners.

There are a number of different designs to choose from but they all look very good and would not look out of place in any garden. If you want to make compost fast, without mess, and keep vermin away from the compost then the best choice is the rotating composter.

Sunlight is the most important aspect when gathering, planting, and caring for your young herbs. Potted herb gardens will need direct and full sunlight for the entire day, so be sure that you have chosen the proper pot for the window or table space that you are working with. Once you have chosen the herbs that you feel are most appropriate, you will be ready to arrange them so as to optimize their survival and growth rate.

When planting a variety of herbs together in one pot, which is highly recommended for ease of care and for aesthetic purposes, you will want to place your tallest seedlings toward the middle of the pot, working out toward the edges or ends with your smaller plants in progression. This will ensure that the taller plants do not overshadow your little guys, allowing each plant to get the full sun that they need for optimum growth and flavor. Basil and chives, for example, should always be at the rear of your pot if it is placed against the wall, or at the center if it is in the window. These plants can reach heights of two feet easily.

Following this same rule for growing herbs in pots, your smaller, trickling plants, such as thyme and oregano, should be planted at the outer edges of your pot so that they can spill out over the sides. The proper amounts of water may vary for each individual species as well, so try to group your herbs based on this very important measure. Once you have begun growing herbs in pots and they are flourishing, anytime is a good time to clip fresh sprigs and leaves for meals. Having and caring for a kitchen herb garden is healthy, beautiful, convenient, and most of all, tasty.

There has been so much written as to why you should not freeze your tomatoes, with the main reason being that they do not taste the same after freezing. Actually they do taste just as good but tend to be a little softer and so are more suitable for soups and sauces. Providing that you freeze them correctly, they will make the best tomato dishes around.

You can freeze tomatoes with or without their skins. You should wash them thoroughly with cold water and cut away the scar around the stem before preparing them for freezing. If you want to peel your tomatoes first, then dip them in hot water until the skin splits and then remove it with care. The rest of the process is the same either way.

When you are ready to freeze your tomatoes, clear a space in your freezer big enough for a cookie sheet and then prepare the tomatoes. Wash them, blot them dry with a clean cloth or paper towel and then choose how you would like to freeze them. Whole is best because it maintains the flavor but you can chop or slice them instead. Prepare them in the way you have chosen and then place them on a cookie tray and insert it into the freezer.

When your tomatoes are well and truly frozen, remove the tray from the freezer and transfer your tomatoes into sealed bags or containers to make sure that the ice does not damage them. When you are ready to use them, they will be perfect, available and very tasty.

Compost is important for several reasons:-

It improves soil structure can increase or decrease soil pH it encourages micro-organisms and worms it holds water, preventing the water leaching through the soil profile it improves the pore spaces between the particles of clay soil it cools soil temperatures during summer it contains nutrients if you make your own, you control what goes into it reduces the demand for landfill tips

However, you do need to be aware of the pitfalls:-the quality of the compost depends entirely on what you put into it it can be expensive if you have to buy in the ingredients weeds such as Couch grass if growing near-by can grow into it if it hasn’t heated up to over 60C, the bad micro-organisms and weed seeds haven’t been destroyed if there is too much nitrogen and not enough oxygen in it, it smells disgusting large pieces such as sticks don’t break down; pieces need to be very small and insects and critters can live in it as it is such a good source of food

Another aspect you need to be aware of is, inadvertently building up the soil level. Over the years of adding compost and mulches, the original soil level increases to the point where it is several inches or centimetres higher. This can cause problems because the plant roots are no longer at the surface of the soil and aren’t getting as much oxygen as they once did. All plant roots need oxygen and if it is not available all plants die. This happens more with mulches but you still need to be aware of it with compost.

Overall, the good points outweight the bad ones.

C:N Ratio C:N stands for Carbon:Nitrogen ratio. This ratio needs to be balanced otherwise the compost won’t decompose. The reason why composts smell is because there is too much nitrogen (kitchen scraps, grass clippings) and not enough carbon and oxygen. This causes a build up of ammonia and this is what causes the smell. To rectify this problem more carbon needs to be added in the form of paper or leaves. The ratio is usually 30:1, this means 30 parts of carbon to 1 part nitrogen.

Methods of Composting There are two main ways of making compost: The Hot Method (fast) and the Cold Method (slow). The fast method brings the temperature of the heap to over 60C and this kills the harmful bacteria. For the fast method to work, the compost heap needs to be in a warm and sunny spot and turned regularly ie. 3-4 times per week. The cold method is usually compost made in the green compost bins. The bins need to be in a warm place that receives morning sun and afternoon shade. It can take up to 6 months for the compost to be ready.

Principles of Composting A compost heap can be compared to a party for micro-organisms where they consume a huge amount of food in the process of this get really hot doing it.Like all parties, there needs to be some preparation and the party goers (micro-organisms) need the right conditions. If the conditions are right the micro-organisms will multiply break down the organic matter.

Ingredients Needed The main ingredient is organic matter. Carbon can be identified as all the brown products such as saw dust and nitrogen can be identified as all the green products such as lawn clipping. Below is a list of all the things you can put into your compost heap. leaves, pea straw, sugar cane grass clippings kitchen waste (not meat or fats and oils) old potting mix the muck from the gutters saw dust dust from the vacuum cleaner shredded twigs and branches discarded annuals perennial flower stalks dog and cat hair human hair shredded paper products – not the glossy coloured pages

Construction of Composting Bays You need an area at least 1.5m X 3m for it to work This gives you plenty of room for turning your compost Walls are constructed from corrugated iron, or steel mesh, held in place using steel stakes,Star pickets or concrete -re-enforcing rods cut to length. Timber stakes rot too quickly. Form 3 bays that are open fronted 1 Bay is for putting material in to break down, 1 bay for spreading on the garden and the last bay is allowed to turn into compost. Turn using a fork on a weekly basis. Adds some nitrogen fertiliser – about 3 to 4 handfuls, blood and bone as it contains a high percentage of nitrogen. As micro-organisms break down the material in the heap they rely heavily on nitrogen present and quickly use it up. Adding blood and bone fertiliser replaces nitrogen used by micro-organisms.

Compost Bins This method of composting is best suited to those who have a plastic compost bin are in no hurry for having compost. This method can take up to 6 months. You can hurry up the process by regularly turning the compost at least 3 times a week. The extra oxygen allows the micro-organisms to break down the material more quickly. You don’t need to buy worms for your compost bins, they will come naturally if the conditions are right for them. Don’t build your compost heaps on bricks or concrete. The worms need to be able to escape into the soil if it is to hot or to wet. Then simply add all the kitchen and garden waste listed previously and over a period of time the worms will gradually eat their way through whatever you feed them. Micro- organisms will also be present in the bin and assist the breakdown process. These bins are especially good for smaller gardens. Watch the moisture content – they can be come too wet. Drill holes in the side to allow oxygen into the bin. Keep in a cool shady spot – Worms don’t like the heat. Don’t put citrus or onions in the compost.

Temperature The hotter the air temperature, the faster the compost breaks down. In winter compost takes several months longer to break down as the air temperature is colder.

Moisture The compost heap must contain some moisture for the micro-organisms to function effectively. The heap must be moisture but not too wet. The compost should have the same feeling as a squeezed kitchen sponge; it feels damp but not soggy. This is about 50% moisture content and is perfect for composting. The best time to add moisture to the heap is during the turning procedure where water can be applied to all areas of the heap and then mixed through.

Compost is ready to use when the inside temperature of the heap is the same as the outside air temperature. The length of time this takes depends on all of the factors that have been discussed ie. type of materials used, moisture content, frequency of turning etc.

Applying Compost to the Soil Compost can be applied to the soil in two ways:

1.By spreading it on top of the existing garden beds and letting the worms move it down into the soil or mixing it with the existing soil by digging it through. Care must be taken that roots of existing trees and shrub are not disturbed. Digging it in to a spades depth is ideal for a vegetable patch, annual or perennial beds.

2.Using the compost as a mulch and simply spreading it over the surface of the garden to a depth of about 4 centimetres. But be careful, it can become compacted because of the small particles if you put it too thickly on and then can become water resistant.

Compost Accelerators Products marketed to assist the breaking down process don’t work so don’t buy them. If you want to try and hurry up the breaking down process you can add herbs such as comfrey or borage.

Compost is a wonderful resource with many benefits. It is a fantastic way to use up garden and kitchen wastes and reduce landfill. It also has the added benefit of improving the water holding capacity of the soil and reducing run off. The quality of the final product – the humus – depends on how much effort you put into it and what you put into it. The secret of good healthy compost is oxygen.

Just put a bin with a lit on next to your regular garbage bin. Whenever you have some vegetable or fruit waste, just put it in the designated bin. Then empty the bin onto your compost every now and again.

As the organic waste is mixed in the worm compost, your fruit and vegetables will grow larger. Using the fertilizer, you will have fresh food items to eat. When you have a worm farm, you will have plenty of compost worms to work with. Also raising worms and composting is a good way of teaching kids about nature.

Here are some key issues on composting:

* Compost piles should always be moist. Too much water can mess it up. It should not be wet to the point where there is an excess; otherwise, it will have to be drained.

* Aeration of the compost pile is when you turn it continuously on a regular basis. When you do that, you allow oxygen to come in on the process. Organic materials will decompose quicker as long as the oxygen is there.

* There should be a balance of carbon and nitrogen in the compost pile. Having too much of either can throw it off kilter. A mixture of organic material and grass trimmings will help it to be balanced. Your compost will then grow properly.

* Composting works to keep pests and plant diseases away. In addition to that, it works to reduce or get rid of the use of fertilizers that contain chemicals. Soil is remediated in a cost-effective manner. Any hazardous waste or toxins are removed.

With the emergence of the “green revolution”, raising worms with composting is a good choice. Adults and children can both benefit from this and learn more about the environment in the process. Not to mention other things that are related to this, such as having waste placed in dumps and landfills.
Nowadays with so many chemicals and other factors causing different areas to be polluted, it’s a wonder that people are still able to breathe through the mess. Some people would have never thought how much food scraps and other viable waste could make a difference in a person’s life.

In addition to the worm farms, plants and vegetables can now have an improved quality of life because of composting. The environment will greatly appreciate it. So, if you haven’t already, start raising worms today and do yourself and the world a favor!

Many Lilies are ready for planting-regale, centifolium, tiger, Philippine, the many new hybrids, speciosum rubrum, auratum. Old lily stems that have finished their growth should be cut back to ground level. Destroy them. Stems often carry insects and diseases through the winter.

Perennials have finished growing by this time. Clean up mums, phlox and others by cutting back old tops to the ground. Burly to prevent the spread of pests next spring. Many perennials can also be set out in the Lower South. Try the giant Improved Shasta Daisy for size. It’s the biggest daisy I have ever seen. It is too bad it won’t grow well farther north.

Dahlias – When the leaves turn black and wilt cut back the tops to a few inches above the ground. After a few days lift the clumps carefully with a spading fork. Turn the clumps upside down and leave on top of the soil for a day or two if weather permits to let any excess moisture drain out of the stems. Remove the dried dirt and pack tubers in peatmoss, sand or vermiculite. Keep in a cool place (40 degrees) until spring.

Hardy Annual Seeds are best planted now in the Upper South. Plant late enough to keep them from starting growth before cold weather but early enough to germinate and start very early in the spring. This applies to sweet peas, larkspur, poppies, California poppies, Phlox drummondi and cornflowers. Plant larkspur in tulip and daffodil beds. It will hide the fpliage after the bulbs have finished blooming.

For the Lower South plant ageratum, alyssum, arctotis, babysbreath, calendula, California poppy, candy-tuft, carnation, clarkia, cornflower, dimorphotheca, forget-me-not, gaillardia, godetia, hunnemannia, linaria, linum, mignonette, nasturtium, nemophila, pansy, petunia, periwinkle, phlox, poppy, Queen Anne’s lace, scabiosa, snapdragon, statice, sweet pea, sweet william, verbena and viola. In Texas include bluebonnets.

Early-Flowering Camellias and anthurium flamingo flower in the Lower South can be given their first feeding in late November or early December after they finish blooming. Use a special camellia food, a small handful for an 18-inch plant to 2 pounds for a 4 to 6-foot one is about right.

Seaside Shrubs – Ones that really tolerate salt spray and some brackish water include raphiolepis, elaeagnus, pittosporum, ligustrum, yucca and the century plant. Native palms are also good where height is needed. Others good for seashore planting in protected areas are: bottlebrush, Ilex vomitoria, junipers, oleander, palms, podocarpus, bananashrub, crapemyrtle and euonymus. In more tropical areas, kumquat and calamondin may be included.

Inexperienced gardeners will often have a hard time in growing herbs. These interesting plants are quite popular these days and a lot of homeowners have already started growing indoor gardens. Certain herbs are usually used to garnish salads, to flavor stews or meat, and add more savor to land veggies. Aside from being used in gourmet cooking, herbs can also be used as aromatic foliage or for aesthetic purposes. Herbs that bear beautiful flowers can be great additions to your home.

The herbs can also be dried if you plan to use them in winter. You can harvest certain herbs during midsummer and simply hang them to allow the water drops to evaporate. Tie the stems when they are dry and put inside paper bags. You can use a rubber band to tie the bag. The bags should be left to dry indoors for 2-3 weeks and after that, you can now crumble the leaves and dry them out inside the oven for about 100 degrees.

Some of the herbs that you can grow from seeds are sweet basil, borage, chervil, chives, dill, lavender, sweet marjoram, mint, sage, summer savory, sesame, and thyme.

Are you now interested in herb gardening? There are various reasons for growing herbs. Herbs are natural pest repellents and maintaining an herb garden is not expensive. You will only need a small amount of organic fertilizers to make the herbs healthy. Instead of buying dried herbs from commercial stores, you can grow your own herbs and the fresh ones are really flavorful. When you grow herbs, you will notice that your yard becomes more fragrant and you will truly enjoy the added color. It’s up to you whether you will grow the herbs outdoors (on your yard) or you can also grow them indoors.

Herbs are healthy and they can make your meals taste better. Your foods will also smell good and delicious.

Here are some tips for you that you can use in growing herbs:

1.Grow thyme from seeds instead of getting the older plants.
2.If you want parsley seeds to sprout better, try to soak them in warm water and leave overnight.
3.If you want to grow mint, it would be best to plant the seeds in containers. Vigorous growth can be ensured if you harvest it regularly.
4.During a sunny day, harvest herbs at an early hour.
5.Successive plantings can ensure a continuous summers harvest for chervils.
6.If your hands smell onion or garlic, you can get rid of the odor using lavender; just rub the leaves between your hands.

Herb gardening is not as hard as you think. All you need is a bit of help from the experts.

As you may already know, caring for roses is an essential part of rose gardening. Many people either buy or receive rose plants and don’t really know what to do to keep them looking their best. If you buy a rose plant or a rose root from your local nursery, then it is best to ask for some general information on that specific kind of plant. There are many kinds of roses and you may have to do some research to learn which species of rose best suits you. There are climbers, rose trees, miniature roses, rose bushes and others.

Properly caring for roses has been researched for many years. A lot has been achieved in the research, including planting, transplanting, fertilizing, pruning and direct sun lengths. Most people buy their rose plants already planted because the planting is done for them. After the rose has been taken home, it will have to be transplanted. When the rose is transplanted, potted or planted in garden, it is time to feed the rose some general fertilizer. Organic fertilizers are what I like use when caring for roses.

Before doing the actual transplant, make sure the area in which the rose will call home is going to have at least 6 hrs of direct sunlight. Most rose plants have to have the 6 hrs, but there are a few that are shade tolerable, for areas where the 6 hrs is not a possibility. These roses can usually take as little as 4 hours of direct sunlight a day and still thrive.

The ph balance is yet another thing that should be cared about when it comes to the properly caring for roses. The ph balance should also be checked before the transplant takes place. It’s a lot safer to set the ph balance before the rose bush or plant is in the ground to ensure that the plant does not get harmed. The most optimal ph balance for a rose is near 6.5 if not exactly 6.5. If transplanting into a pot, and buying soil at the nursery or gardening store, pH will most likely not be a factor until later in the season.

Watering, watering, and watering. This is an area where many people may fail because of overwatering or not enough water. Overwatering can cause water logging and could start a fungal growth on the roots. Overwatering also eliminates a lot of the air that is naturally in dirt. Under watering is just that, not giving the rose enough water to stay quenched and could dry the plant up. Starting a rose plant with about 2 inches of water a week is a good way to start while gradually increasing. While watering, try to get anywhere from 12-18 inches of soil under the surface wet. Be very careful not to get the leaves wet when watering since this could promote fungal diseases.

When it comes to pruning, you want to make sure you do this when a new season starts. I don’t recommend pruning at the end of the season. Pruning in the beginning of the season helps stimulate new growth. Stimulating new growth is not a good idea at the end of the season since the plant is ready to become dormant. If the planted rose is potted, maybe take the plant to a cold part of the house such as a basement or corner of the garage to push it to dormancy. This is usually done around Dec-Jan when the first frost hits.

The best care for roses is someone caring for roses. Keep your roses strong and beautiful and they will continue to excite you every year with their wonderful aromas and colorful blossoms.

Some of us may be fortunate enough to live in a house with a sizable garden. The really fortunate will also have help in the form of a retired partner, or a part-time gardener to help with the work that maintaining such a garden involves! But how great the reward is when you finally sit down and enjoy the unique environment you have created. Traditional herbaceous borders are usually the focal point of a garden, with a constant array of colors, textures and heights. Tall blue delphiniums, clumps of pink and lilac lupins and bright red arches of crocosmia may form the backdrop to echinacea, penstemons, shasta daisies, flat yellow achillea heads and exotic day lilies. Towards the front of the border, miniature alstromeria will flower perpetually from spring to autumn. What is most surprising in a summer border is that colours that should never be seen together look great in the world of flowers. Shocking pink, golden yellow, scarlet, orange and purple all mix together and look stunning. In summer gardens there are no taboos!

Herbaceous borders are known for their color, but sometimes those planted in a color theme are the most attractive and interesting. Purple and yellow look absolutely stunning together, or pink, lilac and white for a softer, more romantic look. Even though colour is the purpose of the perennial border, a liberal sprinkling of green plants may add contrast to further emphasize the beautiful flowers. Alchemilla mollis has lime green leaves which are delicately frilly – a flower-arranger’s dream, or consider variegated hostas which also produce a few spikes of blue in the summer. Red and green headed sedums and hellebore add their own contrast to their brighter counterparts.

This year’s new plants at the RHS Flower Show at Hampton Court Palace featured many ‘black’ flowers and stems, and they looked great in mixed flower beds. Of course many of the plants were not truly black, more a dark burgundy, but these lovely plants did make a talking point and looked stunning in mixed planters. Look out for the new black poppies with their floppy petals, black dahlias, sweet-faced black pansies and even black leafed water lilies. The pepper plant ‘Black Pearl’ has great dark leaves contrasting with its purple flowers; black stemmed lobelia has scarlet flowers and there is a new euphorbia now available called ‘Blackbird’.

The best thing about a perennial border is that, once planted, it will not cost money to plant every year. As predictable as the seasons, up will sprout new shoots each spring and the gardener’s task is one of dividing and thinning rather than planting and weeding, to keep it looking at its best.

Other summer classics are sweet peas, great as a screen and for cutting; clematis which now come in many sizes and shapes; lilies with their glorious scent, and roses. A true English garden should find space for a climbing rose at the very least, if not a full-blown rosebed. Although roses do not impress from a distance, up close each flower is a true work of art. No wonder they are the favourite flower of artists. Add to that the range of colors and the delicate, sweet scent and you can understand why roses have been a summer favorite for centuries.

Summer is also the time for annuals to make their debut, having been raised and nurtured through the frost to finally be transplanted into beds, window boxes, hay baskets, troughs and hanging baskets. Borough parks make some of the best flower beds to brighten roundabouts, grass verges, park beds and town squares. Geraniums, begonias and fuchsias may be edged with white alyssum, blue lobelia, busy lizzies (which flower even in the shadiest spots), bright marigolds, nasturtiums, petunias and pansies. There is always something new, even among the old favorites. Look for new colours in these old stalwarts and plant them for a change.

Even those with the smallest garden or balcony can include some summer flowers for color with very little cost and trouble. Ready-planted tubs can be purchased from nurseries and even from the local supermarket. All they require is a daily watering and some weekly fertilizer to maximize the flowering period. If you have a suitable container already, such as a tin bucket, a small wheelbarrow, or a sizable container then make your very own unique flower display. Choose a central focal point, possibly a geranium, large begonia or a spiky-leafed dracaena then edge it with two or three small annuals, repeated around the edge. Remember to include a contrast of colors, textures and some trailing plants too such as variegated ivy, trailing lobelia or surfinias to soften the edges.

Another way to appreciate the bounty of summer flowers is to visit one of the many stately homes and gardens which are open to the public. These properties always have formal gardens and a team of gardeners to keep them looking their best. Many properties have lawns with borders, established flowering trees, splendid rose gardens, arbours, water features and perennial borders. Remember to take your camera with you and bring home plenty of ideas for your next summer gardening project!