Posts Tagged: Gardening

Gardening — Comments Off
25
Jun 11

Southern Lilies – Get Ready For Planting

Roses are best planted in late November, December and January. Many new varieties are not ready for shipment until after the first of the year. For the Lower South special attention should be given to the preparation of the soil. Roses don’t like very sandy soils. So, make sandy soils more retentive by adding peat. Use plenty of rotted manure for both fertility and humus. Mulch with pine straw or peat.

Many Lilies are ready for planting-regale, centifolium, tiger, Philippine, the many new hybrids, speciosum rubrum, auratum. Old lily stems that have finished their growth should be cut back to ground level. Destroy them. Stems often carry insects and diseases through the winter.

Perennials have finished growing by this time. Clean up mums, phlox and others by cutting back old tops to the ground. Burly to prevent the spread of pests next spring. Many perennials can also be set out in the Lower South. Try the giant Improved Shasta Daisy for size. It’s the biggest daisy I have ever seen. It is too bad it won’t grow well farther north.

Dahlias – When the leaves turn black and wilt cut back the tops to a few inches above the ground. After a few days lift the clumps carefully with a spading fork. Turn the clumps upside down and leave on top of the soil for a day or two if weather permits to let any excess moisture drain out of the stems. Remove the dried dirt and pack tubers in peatmoss, sand or vermiculite. Keep in a cool place (40 degrees) until spring.

Hardy Annual Seeds are best planted now in the Upper South. Plant late enough to keep them from starting growth before cold weather but early enough to germinate and start very early in the spring. This applies to sweet peas, larkspur, poppies, California poppies, Phlox drummondi and cornflowers. Plant larkspur in tulip and daffodil beds. It will hide the fpliage after the bulbs have finished blooming.

For the Lower South plant ageratum, alyssum, arctotis, babysbreath, calendula, California poppy, candy-tuft, carnation, clarkia, cornflower, dimorphotheca, forget-me-not, gaillardia, godetia, hunnemannia, linaria, linum, mignonette, nasturtium, nemophila, pansy, petunia, periwinkle, phlox, poppy, Queen Anne’s lace, scabiosa, snapdragon, statice, sweet pea, sweet william, verbena and viola. In Texas include bluebonnets.

Early-Flowering Camellias and anthurium flamingo flower in the Lower South can be given their first feeding in late November or early December after they finish blooming. Use a special camellia food, a small handful for an 18-inch plant to 2 pounds for a 4 to 6-foot one is about right.

Seaside Shrubs – Ones that really tolerate salt spray and some brackish water include raphiolepis, elaeagnus, pittosporum, ligustrum, yucca and the century plant. Native palms are also good where height is needed. Others good for seashore planting in protected areas are: bottlebrush, Ilex vomitoria, junipers, oleander, palms, podocarpus, bananashrub, crapemyrtle and euonymus. In more tropical areas, kumquat and calamondin may be included.

Gardening — Comments Off
2
Jun 11

Transplanting Your Vegetable Seedlings

Particularly in the North, where the growing season is shorter, it is necessary to transplant several garden crops in order to make sure that strong plants will be able to mature and produce within the growing season. In the Southern states, the growing season is longer, and transplanting is generally not necessary, as many plants can be direct-seeded at the same time that Northerners are starting their seedlings indoors.

Transplanting should be done as soon as the seedlings are large enough to handle, from the starter pots into larger pots in which they’ll remain until they can be transplanted again into the garden.

Though the transplanting process is a good option for many plants, it has a greater effect on some plants. Some vegetable seedlings cannot undergo transplantation, as the process tends to bend or break their small roots, and, in the case of carrots or other straight-root vegetables, this defeats the purpose. Other vegetables, like celery, that are not grown for their roots benefit from the transplant process as it tends to build a wider root structure to support and nourish the plant.

There are several vegetable crops that simply do not transplant well from the seed-bed to the garden plot. Plants such as melons, cucumbers and beans should be direct-seeded when possible, though in short-season areas this may mean they cannot be planted at all. In these cases, some gardeners use planting pots that can be placed directly in the garden, providing an opportunity to start the plants indoors, without having to later transplant them. Peat pots, or pint or quart berry boxes work well for this use.

Another method is to cut sod into 6" square pieces about 2 inches thick. Place them, root side up, and plant the melons, or other garden plant, in hills directly on the loamy soil, supported by the grass roots.

When the weather warms, and it’s time to "transplant" these garden seedlings, simply place the peat pots, berry boxes or sod squares into the prepared hole. You can also trim the bottom of the berry boxes, if so desired.

Gardening — Comments Off
1
Jun 11

Growing Wild in the Garden

We can’t all afford a country cottage or enjoy regular access to areas of remote wilderness. With some careful planning and thoughtful planting, however, we can make any sized yard a haven for nature and bring the great outdoors a little closer to home.

With just a little effort anyone can transform a corner of their own habitat into a place enlivened by the splashes of color and soothing sounds that many of our wild neighbors bring to our home environment. The key to creating a successful and rewarding area for wildlife is in the plants that you choose, and making sure that shelter and food are available to your wild guests all year round.

If you want to attract a wide variety of creatures, from garden friendly insects to birds and squirrels, it is well worth spending considerable time planning your backyard refuge.

During spring and summer plenty of bright, scented flowers should attract dazzling butterflies and hummingbirds. Evergreen shrubbery and small trees will create safe feeding and roosting areas for a host of wild birds all year round.

Berry-bearing plants such as mountain ash and holly not only look attractive, but also provide a valuable food supply for hungry garden visitors in the harsh winter months.

Make sure that clean, fresh water is available in all weathers and the birds will be queuing up to have a drink or take a bath. If you have room, create a pond with a few well chosen water plants and you’re sure to attract such fascinating creatures as frogs, newts and impressive dragonflies.

With a huge range of feeders and specially packaged foodstuffs available it is easy to bring many types of wild bird to your backyard sanctuary. Even the most modest of spaces should draw grateful feathered diners by the dozen.

Brightly colored seed-eating finches, juncos and towhees will jostle alongside the robins and chickadees while woodpeckers and nuthatches may be tempted by strategically placed suet feeders. Hang a hummingbird feeder in view of a window and enjoy the comings and goings of these stunning avian jewels as they return time and again to the high energy nectar you provide.

Try to place your feeders close to shelter so that the birds can quickly escape from predators when they need to, but make sure that they’re far enough away from places where hungry cats or hawks can hide undetected.

Provide safe breeding sites by putting up a nest box or two, though never place these too close to the feeders as most nesting birds don’t appreciate sharing their intimate space with others when trying to raise a new brood. Most garden birds need a constant supply of insects and caterpillars to feed their growing young, so by encouraging these natural pest controllers you will help reduce those pesky garden bugs in a natural, chemical-free way.

A bat box too may entice these delightful winged mammals into your garden and keep the number of irritating midges, mosquitoes and other nocturnal bugs to a minimum. Check out your local bookstore or online forums for further information on how to attract these natural wonders into your yard. Soon, the whole family will be enjoying the wildlife that chooses to share your neck of the woods.

Gardening — Comments Off
25
May 11

Herbs in Pots – Getting the Most Out of Your Container Garden

When you just need a bit of color or a dab of the unusual, it is the herbs one will use to get the job done. Most popular herbs thrive in pots and containers which can be situated in a windowsill or on a balcony close by for quick use. Then in the winter months, some are brought in for a continued fresh supply for culinary use.

Mint has a widely invasive root system so is well suited for containers. This is among the easiest perennial herb to grow and one of the most aromatic. Mint should be planted in moisture retentive soil and favors a full sun position. The leaves of the ‘Moroccan’ variety are best for teas and garnishes and all round usefulness.

Dill a feathery, aniseed flavored leaf with seeds that follow a tiny cluster of flowers. They make a delicate addition to any summer container and it is useful as well. The dwarf varieties of Dill, “Bouquet” or “Fernleaf” should be planted in a container in full sun and should be watered regularly to prevent plants from setting seed or bolting. Dill is used in many recipes either dry or fresh with seeds for infusions in vinegar and olive oil.

Coriander when fresh, leaves are used to flavor soups, sauces and as a garnish. Coriander will do well in partial shade if its fresh leaves you require. If you require Coriander seeds for pickles and curries place your container in full sun. This aromatic annual has bright green leaves with pale purple flowers which are followed by the seeds.

Gardening — Comments Off
6
May 11

Leaf Mold is an Excellent Soil Conditioner

When fall comes around there is no shortage of leaves. There is something that you can do with the leaves that will benefit your garden. Turn your leaves into a free soil conditioner.

Leaf mold is a soil conditioner with low fertility. It is mainly used to improve the structure of soil by improving both water retention and drainage. It is also excellent to be used as a mulch,it can suppress weed growth and prevent evaporation. The earthworms love it and work hard to blend it into the soil for you. It is also good to use as a potting mix amendment for raising seedlings. A Mixture of equal parts of leaf mold, loam and compost make a good multi-purpose potting compost mix.

Leaves also are a great way to cover exposed soil in your garden beds over winter,piling leaves onto the soil surface will protect the soil from erosion due too heavy winter rains.This will protect the soil structure and the leaves can be dug into the soil or added to your compost pile in the spring.

Leaf mold is very easy to make. Just rake and collect all your leaves then put them into one place and let them to rot. You can also make a leaf mold bin just like a compost bin with 4 stakes and some wire mesh, or you can even put leaves into plastic bags to decompose. The containers that you use don’t really matter, as long as the leaves get moisture either by rain or you will have to wet leaves. If you’re using plastic bags then you will need to provide a few air holes in the bags.

Now all you need is time and patience. Some of the leaves will take longer to break down than other ones will. Once spring comes around you will have partially rotted leaves that can be used as a mulch. If you want fully composted leaves then leave them decomposing until fall. Once you start making leaf mold year after year you will soon have a full steady supply.

Gardening — Comments Off
6
May 11

The Home Farmer Caring For a Vegetable Garden

A good vegetable garden can give the homeowner immense satisfaction and pride. What can surpass the flavour of freshly-cut asparagus, garden-fresh peas, a bowl of freshly picked strawberries or corn on the cob boiled and eaten within minutes of picking from the garden? Only a home gardener or a true gourmet really appreciates the difference in flavour between “store bought” produce and garden-fresh vegetables.

Plan to grow the vegetables which your family enjoys. Consideration of family preferences will go a long way towards making the vegetable garden a success.

Locate your vegetable garden where it will receive at least six hours of sunshine during sunny days.

A few crops can be planted in the spring as soon as the soil can be worked. These include peas, onions, lettuce, radish, spinach, parsnips and beets but in general, it is not advisable to plant your vegetable garden until after danger of frost is past.

The soil should be well dug and fertilized before planting. For root crops such as carrots, it should be free of hard lumps or stones. Leafy vegetables such as lettuce, spinach and cabbage do best if a high nitrogen fertilizer is used.

Buy good seed from a reputable dealer. Plant varieties suited to your locality. If you purchase plants to set out in your garden, examine them carefully and do not buy any which are diseased – watch for spots on stems and leaves or galls on roots.

Transplanting – When setting out plants like the snapdragons in the garden, choose a dull, sunless day if at all possible. If plants are set out on dry, sunny days or when the wind is strong, the newly set plants may dry out before the roots become established, causing severe stunting or even death of the plants. For best results, water the plants immediately after transplanting with about 1 pint of water-soluble fertilizer solution such as 1 tablespoon of 20-20-20 dissolved in a gallon of water.

Spray or dust regularly during the summer to keep down insect pests and diseases. A Multi-Purpose Flower and Vegetable Spray is an excellent all-around treatment for most common insect and disease troubles. Cabbages and other related cole crops will require frequent treatment to keep them free from insects. After edible portions of crops appear, or if insects are present just before harvest, use a non-toxic type insecticide such as Neem oil which is all natural and organic.

One tip from a Lazy Husband: Do not plant any more than your wife can keep weeded.

Gardening — Comments Off
29
Apr 11

Organic Gardening – How to Improve Your Garden’s Soil to Best Benefit Your Heirloom Tomatoes

Tomatoes can be a very productive crop if the condition they are planting in are favorable for them. They are a crop that likes a loose, nutrient rich organic soil structure.

Improving the soil where tomatoes are planted can be very beneficial for a good crop. Tomatoes need a loose, rich soil so they can spread their root system deep and easily. By mixing plenty of organic matter into the garden is an ideal way to improve the soil that you plant them in. Compost and composted manure are two of the best organic amendments to use when improving the soils structure for your tomatoes. another important part of improving the soil is to do a pH test of the soil. Tomatoes do best in a neutral to slightly acid soil, they absorb nutrients they need best when the pH level is between 6.5 to 7.0. Keeping the soil in the lower part of this range will help prevent a condition tomatoes get known as “yellow shoulder.”

To prepare your gardens soil for your tomatoes, dig in compost or composted manure deeply into your garden beds. Using aged or composted manure when amending your gardens soil can also be done in the spring. Remember that roots of tomato plants love to travel and will grow out as well as down. when preparing the soil for your tomatoes you can at the same time mix in a slow release organic fertilizer, along with some lime if needed.

When you take care of your gardens soil it will take care of you by providing a healthy, high yielding crop for you to enjoy.

Gardening — Comments Off
2
Apr 11

Rose Bush Care – 5 Things You Need to Know When Taking Care of Roses

Roses are beautiful, delicate flowers in a variety of types and colors. If you are passionate about growing roses, there are a few things you must know to be successful.

- How much water do they need?

Roses need a lot of water. You must be careful however not to over water them. Too much water can leave the roots shallow and unable to absorb nutrients from the soil. It is best to water roses deeply 3 times a week rather then sprinkle every day.

- How much sunlight do rose bushes need?

Roses need the maximum amount of sunlight available. An ideal location would be an area which provides at least 6 hours of sunlight a day. When full sunlight is not available, an area with partial shade would be sufficient.

- What kind of soil do they need?

Soil that is high in nutrients is necessary. Nitrogen rich fertilizer should be used in the beginning stages to aid in the growth of leaves and roots.

- How important is weed control?

Weed control is very important. When caring for your rose bushes, it is good to keep in mind that weeds will slow down the growth of your roses. Weeds rob water and essential nutrients from the soil, starving the rose plants.

- Do I need to prune my rose bushes?

Pruning should be done once a year, normally at the end of winter. This helps eliminate any dead or diseased plant pieces, making it a very important step in caring for your rose bushes.

Gardening — Comments Off
12
Mar 11

What to Do in a Northern May Garden

Thinning Seedlings

Seedling need to be thinned if you do not want weak spindly plants that bear poorly. Beets, carrots, onions, leaf lettuce and all flowering annuals should be thinned to 2 or 3 inches at least between plants. Large annuals and such vegetables as beans, parsnips, turnips and head lettuce should be at least 4 to 8 inches apart. Do the thinning after a rain or after thorough sprinkling. It’s easier then.

Cultivating should start as soon as the seedlings show through the ground. Soil that is cultivated regularly every 10 days never gets hard, weeds are kept under control and the ground is aerated.

Lawn Weeds

Weeds in the lawn present a big problem but during May… you can get the jump on them while they are still small. If you have only a few pull them by hand. Treat dandelion, plantain with a weed killer and a couple of weeks later the weeds will be gone.

For heavier infestations call in a professional, they will apply an application over the entire lawn. If you do any spraying with a weed killer don’t use the sprayer or for anything else unless you wash it thoroughly after each session with the weed killer. The best action is to purchase a sprayer for weed killers on;y and another for pesticides applied to plants.

Beetle Grubs

Japanese Beetle grubs can be controlled in the lawn with chemical sprays this month. It will also help control the chinch bug that kills grasses by sucking the juices. One application is effective for the whole season against the chinch bug and grub proofs the lawn usually for several years. Check with your county agent or law professional for control. Also feed the lawn this month with fertilizer to give it new vigor and overcome the damage.

Tender Plants

Set out tender plants late in May. This includes zinnias, marigolds and other tender annuals raised in coldframes or greenhouse and the tender vegetables such as tomatoes, eggplants and peppers.

Chrysanthemum cuttings that are well-rooted should be potted now. There’s still time to start more cuttings and make it an indoor potted plant but keep them growing without interruption if you want a good crop of flowers. A check in growth produces a tough woody stem that reduces flowering.

Amaryllis that have finished blooming should be kept growing until fall or until the leaves yellow and the plant goes into a rest of its own accord. Then lay the pots on their sides under a bench or in the basement to dry off and rest for several months.

Carnation cuttings it does not pay to let them stay in pots and become potbound. Set the plants high and pack the soil firmly around them. Water thoroughly.

Heliotropes, Geraniums, Lantanas or other plants grown as standards should be pinched shortly before planting out so the heads will be stocky and able to withstand unfavorable weather. Strong stakes are also essential and should be put into place at the same time as the plants are set out.

The garden and landscape is beginning to show the rewards of regular attention. Bring on the blooms.

Gardening — Comments Off
2
Mar 11

Fall Color – One of Nature’s Many Secrets

The red pigment, which is responsible for the brilliant reds and scarlets of maples and oaks, is anthocyanin, which is believed to be produced in some way as a result of accumulation of sugars and tannins in the leaves.

Experiments have shown that when the temperature falls to 45 degrees, or below, there is very little or no translocation of sugars and other materials from the leaves to other parts of the plant. When cool nights follow warm, bright, sunny days, sugar and other materials, which are manufactured in the leaves, are trapped in the leaves and conditions are favorable for production of red color.

A summary of the requirements for good fall color in this area should include these: care of ficus and trees should be in good, healthy condition resulting from favorable summer weather conditions and protection from injurious insects and diseases; varieties of trees which are expected to color brilliantly should be located in an open area where they will receive the full benefit of the sun’s rays; the delay of a hard freeze until late in the fall season; a gradual approach of autumn with bright, sunny, warm days followed by cool nights. Fall color is poor when the autumn days are cloudy, warm and rainy and when the season is brought to a sudden premature end by a severe freeze which kills the leaves before they have had a chance to color.

Fall color is indeed one of Nature’s many secrets. A few points are fairly well understood regarding the phenomenon, but scientists have failed to solve many of such problems, as, “Why does this hard maple turn yellow in autumn, while the one beside it of the same species and apparently living under identical environment, turns a brilliant red?” Even though many secrets remain unsolved, some knowledge of the marvelous procedure of Nature adds greatly to our enjoyment of this beautiful season.

← Older Entries